So Shines a Good Deed In a Weary World

I'm poaching wireless internet (sort of, I've been buying drinks...) from an awesome hostel in Guilin called Ming Palace. The downstairs reception and lounge area is really inviting and I'm making lots of mental notes for what the interior of a great hostel looks like should I ever open one.

This morning I arrived on an overnight train from Guangzhou. The train ride was pretty uneventful. I shared a four-bunk soft sleeper compartment with two others. The guy on the bunk below mine snored vigorously for about an hour, but other than that I got great sleep.

I also had this trippy dream that I was in a childhood house helping three friends move furniture when an earthquake struck. The room was just shaking and shaking for what seemed like an hour. I woke up to the train rocking back and forth in a motion that matched the quake.

The last time that my dream incorporated the outside world, I woke up chewing my hand as a proxy for the hamburger I was enjoying dreamside.

As comfortable as the train ride was, they turned the A/C down halfway through and I woke up to the humidity on my skin. I travel with a handful of moist towelettes for this very purpose, but they also make a poor substitute for a shower.

Lonely Planet reported that there was a friendly hostel 5 minutes walk from the train station. I was hoping they would let me store a bag for the day. On a whim I asked it they'd let me pay and take a shower too. They agreed and wouldn't take money, so I booked a night here for when I come back before heading on to Kunming.

The shower was sensational. After a 12-hour train ride you earn it in a similar way to running a 5k.

Renewed, with a lightened load, I took off for a stroll around downtown Guilin. It reminds me of Xi'an with wider roads and just as much pollution.

After finding the bus station and confirming the time of the last bus to Yangshuo (9pm, an hour later than written in the guidebook), I called Erin to let her know. She's due into the Guilin airport at 5:20, but we figured it would be 7 before she made it to the city. The extra hour of buses gives us plenty of cushion.

I stopped to grab some egg tarts to eat since I didn't have any in Macau. The pastry crust was a little tough but the custard was light and delicious.

I made my way to Jingjiang Park which has a little 400ft. peak that is supposed to yield a great view of the city. Given that the admission had jumped to 88 yuan from the 15 reported in the guide, and that I was going to do a river cruise, and that I generally don't pay to go in parks or temples anymore, I passed.

Over by the Li river, there are plenty of people willing to give bamboo raft rides. Perhaps later, but the heat and a little drowsyness was getting to me, so when I say the Ming Palace's inviting terrace, I stopped in.

The desk staff is friendly and speaks fluent English, but also humors me practicing Chinese.

I could spend a few days in this place, but I feel guilty about my shower deal at the other hostel.

I think what I'll do is offer them money again when I pick up my bag and then head to Ming Palace when I get back. Seems fair.

Seems like an average day traveling.